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Your lot
Survey pins :
When your lot is surveyed during the development of the land
and before construction of the house, the surveyor installs
pins at all lot corners. After the foundation has been installed,
the surveyor carefully records the position of the house relative
to the lot lines and a lot survey plan is prepared. A copy
of this plan may have been given to you as part of your legal
documents upon closing.
Frequently, people assume that certain appurtenances or physical
features of the property are evidence of boundaries. However,
swales (depressions in the terrain) are a function of the
drainage system, and hydro or telephone kiosks (junction boxes)
are placed only within an easement reserved for this purpose.
Do not accept such things as evidence of boundary lines.
Survey pins may have been dislodged or buried during construction.
Should you wish to install a fence, hedge or any boundary
feature and cannot locate the corner lot pins, it is advisable
to obtain the services of a qualified surveyor to relocate
the lot lines to ensure that you do not encroach on the property
of others.
Easements :
Most lots have easements in favour of various public utilities
so that their linos may be installed. Where services are underground,
it is advisable that the appropriate utility be contacted
prior to any digging for tree planting, flower beds, etc.
In most communities, the utilities are pleased to stake the
location of their services at no expense to you, so that you
do not accidentally cut into their lines.
Drainage :
Early in the land development stage, general drainage patterns
are established in principle with municipal and other authorities.
As construction proceeds, the drainage system is studied,
and care taken in the placement of the house on the lot.
Seldom, however, can the plans anticipate every contingence
and often these upgrading plans are altered, not in principle,
but in detail. There may be some variations between grading
proposals and the actual work carried out. Such modifications
are not made without good reason. For exarnple, basement window
wells are sometimes installed to facilitate grading around
the house. Even though a model house may have been built with
or without window wells, grading conditions on any individuel
lot may require they be eliminated or added.
If window wells are required, it is imperative that they
be kept free of leaves and other debris which may interfere
with the proper flow of water to the footing drainage system.
Lot drainage systems such as swales (shallow valleys) and
catch basins are designed to direct water away from the house.
These systems must be maintained by the homeowner. Leaves
and other debris should be rernoved in the Spring and Fall
as should snow and ice in the early Spring to assure that
proper drainage is not restricted.
You should also note that your lot has been graded for proper
drainage during a normal rainfall. Heavy or prolongea rains
may result in some standing water (ponding in depressions)
for a limited period of time when the soil is saturated. The
homeowner should not change the grading of the lot so as to
cause a drainage problem. If your neighbour should change
his grading or execute landscaping plans which impede the
free flow of water from your lot, there are rernedies available.
As this is a civil matter, a dispute of this nature is best
handled through your solicitor.
Adjacent to foundation walls you may notice slight depressions
resulting from soil cornpaction. These depressions should
be filled to direct rain water away from the area.
Landscaping :
If sod or seed is included in the contractuel agreement,
the following should be considered for maximum results.
Although the sod, when laid, is of good quality and healthy,
it will require care and attention. If you are in your home
before the sod is laid, you may wish to fertilise the top
soil before the sod is placed. Further fertilisation, immediately
after the laying of sod, will help. Avoid walking on newly
laid wet sod.
Frequent, even daily, watering by the owner during the first
few weeks after an area has been sodded or seeded is essentiel.
Once the grass has "taken", weekly watering is usually
adequate if you water during the growing season. Shallow watering
results in a shallow root system and makes the lawn susceptible
to "burning". For the same reason grass should not
be cut too short - a two inch height is recommended.
Semi-annual fertilizing and weed control are also suggested
for successful performance. We recommend you consult your
garden centre for suitable products.
In the early Spring when the snow begins to melt, do not
allow snow or ice to remain on a shaded area as this could
cause "winter kill". Such accumulations can be distributed
over the other areas to aid the overall melting process.
Grass may do better in one area than in another, depending
on exposure to sun, wind, rain and such factors as drainage,
soil type, care and attention. Damage from animal excrement
is the source of much complaint but understandably is beyond
the control of the builder or the person responsable for the
initial landscaping.
Settlement of a minor nature is almost certain to occur over
some areas of new lawns. If an especially even lawn is desired
you may do a certain amount of retamping, top dressing or
filling up of such depressions to obtain a uniform surface.
In planning and installing planting beds, be careful not
to interfere with the drainage system. Be sure that planting
beds are graded away f rom and not towards your foundation
wall.
Ail shrubs and trees should be kept well clear of the house.
If you have trees on your property you should immediately
begin a program of tree care. Tree surgeons or horticulturists
could be consulted on this subject.
Walks and driveways :
Seasonal temperature and precipitation variations may cause
cracks in walks and driveways. In addition, frost penetration
may raise sections so as to change the direction of surface
drainage. Affected areas may return to their original position
in warm weather. These results of climatic and other natural
causes are beyond the buillder's control in most instances.
Your driveway was designed and constructed for use by passenger
cars or light delivery vehicles and not for heavy trucks.
Your concrete driveway will be subjected to additional freeze-thaw
cycling due to the influence of salt applied to the streets.
It is advisable to remove this accumulation of "slush"
in order to prevent surface damage. Concrete sealers that
are commercially available may reduce damage due to the salt
influence.
Caution - avoid the use of chemical de-icers. These products
can be harmful to concrete surfaces.
One of the necessary chores relating to stone or gravel driveways
is the occasional raking of these rnaterials into wheel ruts
to maintain an even surface. Because the earth around the
house is usually disturbed during the building process it
is likely to settle, especially when your car (weighing thousands
of pounds) drives over it. In new developments, prior to acceptance
by the municipality, it may be necessary for the developer
or road contracter to repair cracked or settled sidewalk and
road curb sections in the path of the driveway. Should you
have paved before this work is done, the builder cannot be
responsable for repairs to the driveway, which would becorne
necessary.
For reasons mentioned above, in the case of stone or gravel
drives, paving (if called for in your specifications) may
be delayed.
Indentations or uneven areas in asphalt surfaces can be expected.
Other characteristics inelude tire rnarkings, the flaking
away of surface chips and checking or cracking at the edges
caused by expansion and contraction. However, asphalt will
last for many years given normal use and care but it is not
indestructible and periodic resealing is recornmended. Two
of the rnore common sources of damage are petroleum products,
bicycle and motorcycle kick-stands.
Gasoline will dissolve asphalt at a rapid rate and any observed
spills or drippings should be washed away immediately. Any
pointed object will sink readily into asphalt in warm weather.
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