Your home

Basement walls :

Basement walls are subject to rnany stresses. The base of the wall, being well below grade, maintains a fairly uniform temperature whereas the portion above grade is subject to a wide range of seasonal temperature variations. Such thermal changes cause concrete and many other materials to expand and contract which may cause minor cracks.

Masonry :

Mortar joints in brickwork are not entirely waterproof. You are advised, therofore, not to build up planting beds so as to cover any of the brickwork. As tirne goes on we suggest you periodically check the mortar joints for signs of shrinkage (fine cracks sometimes occur between the mortar and the brick). If the mortar joints deteriorate to any great extent it is advisable to have them repointed to reduce penetration by moisture. Hairline cracks are not normally a cause for concern.

You may notice that the bottom course of brick at the top of the foundation wall contains openings (usually round holes or with the vertical mortar joint left out) every few brick spacings. These are "weep holes" and should not be covered over or filled as they allow the passage to the outside of condensation or incidental moisture through the wall face and over the base flashing.

Exterior cladding-siding :

Factory finished sidings (short of mechanical damage) normally do not require repainting for many years. Due to their smooth texture they can normally be kept clean by "hosing down" although some light scrubbing, using a mild detergent, may first be necessary over some areas and in some localities.

Moisture in wood sidings, from whatever source, contributes to most exterior paint failures. Water
from garden sprinklers, damp shrubbery close to the wall, small cracks in the siding or around door or window details and in localized areas (e.g. kitchen and bathroom walls), and excessive inside relative humidity can all lead to increased wood moisture contents. If enough moisture finds its way to the back of the paint film then peeling and blistering can occur. Caulking, exposed to the weather, should be checked annually and recaulking carried out in deteriorated areas, using a good quality caulking compound (old ineffective caulking should first be removed).

Brilliant and dark colours, while providing adequate protection, may fade more rapidly on south and west exposures and require frequent repainting to maintain their original appearance. Avoid painting in cold or damp weather and on hot days, try to paint in shaded areas away from the direct sunlight. ldeally one should begin on a surface that has been exposed to the warmth and drying action of the sun and then "follow the sun around." Follow the manufacturer's recornmendatioris for best results. Horizontal surfaces such as decks, handrails, and window sills may require cleaning and "touching up" more trequently than other portions of the house.

If the exterior of your new home is finished with stucco, hairlirie cracks may appear in the finish coat after the drying and shrinking process is complete. This condition must be expected and is particularly noticeable in trowelled finished stucco. It is suggested this condition be left for a period of two years or until all shrinkage has taken place and then if desired, it can be corrected by having a brush coat applied.

Wood decking & hand rails :

Sundecks, verandas and raised patios and their hand rails are naturally subject to use, which often involves abrasives such as sand and grit and exposure to rain, snow and sun. Paint failure on such surfaces may be a cause for complaint for which thore is no permanent cure other than regular care and maintenance.

Weatherstripping :

Annually check the weatherstripping around doors and windows to reduce air infiltration in winter and dust and dirt in the summer. Many types of weatherstripping are available, some of which are adjustable. Regardless of the type used, there are distinct advantages to ensuring that the seal is snug. Keep weatherstripping free from paint. Lubricate rubber or vinyl products with petroleurn jelly to keep them pliable.

Outside hose connection :

If the garden hose connection has a valve inside the house it has to be shut off and drained from the inside before winter to prevent freezing and possible bursting. For the same reason, a garden hose should never be left connected during freezing weather. Ice forming in the hose will break either the hose or the hose faucet.

The roof :

The roof of your house should give you many years of service. It is good practice to check for loose, broken or missing shingles following heavy windstorms. Storm related damage is not a builder responsibility, therefore maintenance repairs should be made as soon as possible after such occurrences to prevent leakage that can cause serious damage to the interior.

Asphalt shingles are soft on warm days and the top surface containing protective granules can readily be damaged by people walking over them for whatever purpose. Roofs are frequently damaged by the installation of such things as TV aerials and care must be taken during their erection, not only to avoid damaging the shingles but assure that hold-down devices (e.g. screws for guy wires, etc.) are properly sealed to prevent leaks.

It is impossible for manufacturers to avoid slight differences in colour shades even within the same factory run of the same colour of shingle. Colour shading is usually imperceptible and such differences are reduced on weathering. Shading of asphalt roofing is normal and unavoidable, and does not affect durability.

Slight variations may be observed in the roof's level. This may be a puckering of the plywood or the raising of shingles between nails when they expand.

Gutters, eavestroughs and downspouts :

If gutters are installed on your house, a number of precautions should be observed. Should they become clogged with debris or ice, they cannot carry out their intended function and water damage could be the result.

Keep gutters and downspouts free of obstructions such as leaves and paper. Surface particles from asphalt shingles, washed down by rains often settle in gutters and reduce their efficiency; these should be removed. A Spring and Fail check is necessary.

Ice dams on roofs :

Ice dams are an annual occurrence in some parts of the country and occur on an unpredictable basis in others. The formation of ice dams on the eaves of sloping roofs often causes water to back up under the shingles so as to leak inside. Snow melting on the roof and freezing at the eaves causes ice damming. Melted water running down the roof can, with rapidly falling temperatures, freeze at the uninsulated overhang of the roof.

Where ice dams occur, temporary relief can be obtained by clearing the snow off the roof, particularly at the eaves, and by knocking ice formations from the eaves and valley ends, taking care not to damage the roofing.

Storm doors :

The installation of storm doors is recommended where non-insulated entrance doors are used. If installed, they may increase the life of your doors, reduce warpage and generally add to year round convenience, comfort and heat savings.

The garage :

It is not possible to prevent concrete garage floors from cracking due to shrinkage. Once the garage floor has cured, you may wish to treat it with a concrete sealer, made specifically for this purpose. A reliable paint dealer can recommend suitable products.

Attic ventilation :

Should the design of your home include an attic, it has been provided with sufficient ventilation to provide a good air exchange. However, in certain snow storm conditions, snow May be blown into the attic. It is advisable to check your attic after unusually heavy snowstorms. Should snow be present, it must be removed before melting occurs.

Main beam and telepost adjustments :

In areas where homes are constructed on clay or other material that is subject to shrinkage or swelling, il is suggested that a bi-annual check be made.

The main beam straightness may be checked with a strong line stretched from end to end, offset by a standard measure e.g. a 1/2-in. dowel.

Telepost adjustments may be required to align the beam. This should be done slowly (say a half turn/day) until proper alignment can be established.

A hairline crack between wall and ceiling over a main beam may be an indication that adjustments are required.

Soil expansion may require that teleposts be shortened.

Caution - the practice of framing below a main beam to facilitate basement development should be avoided. This practice will make teleposts ineffective.